A team of seasoned climbers is preparing for an ambitious alpine-style expedition to Yalung Peak in Nepal. This marks their second attempt at the 7,590-meter peak, located in the Kangchenjunga massif. The climbers aim to complete what they started last year when severe weather conditions forced them to retreat. With their expertise and determination, they hope to succeed this time.
Experienced Climbers Take on a Tough Challenge
The expedition team consists of three highly skilled climbers: Nives Meroi, 63, and Romano Benet, 62, both from Italy, along with Peter Hamor, 60, from Slovakia. These climbers have decades of experience and a history of major ascents. They specialize in alpine-style climbing, which means they will carry all their gear, avoid fixed ropes, and forgo supplemental oxygen.
Hamor will be the first to leave for Nepal. He departs tomorrow and will trek in the region with his wife before the climb. Meroi and Benet will follow on April 2. The team plans to acclimatize on nearby Kabru (7,412m) instead of their intended route on Yalung Peak. This will help them adapt to the altitude while preserving their energy for the main climb.
A Familiar Territory with Unfinished Business
The climbers are no strangers to the region. They successfully climbed Kabru South (7,318m) in 2023. That climb earned Meroi a Piolet d’Or award in the female category. Their experience in the area gives them confidence, but Yalung Peak remains an unfinished challenge.
Last spring, the trio attempted Yalung Peak for the first time. However, bad weather in eastern Nepal made climbing impossible. The poor conditions affected other expeditions as well, including commercial teams on Kangchenjunga. While a few independent climbers managed to reach summits in the region, most were forced to abandon their attempts. Meroi, Benet, and Hamor had planned a swift push to the summit, but the weather did not allow them to proceed.
This year, they return with renewed focus. “Let’s hope it goes better this time,” Benet stated in a recent update.
Aiming for the Southeast Spur Route
The team has chosen the southeast spur for their ascent. This is the same route they planned to take last year. If conditions allow, they may also attempt to traverse from Yalung Peak to Kangbachen (7,902m). This would add a major challenge to their climb. In 2019, Benet and Meroi attempted Kangbachen but found the face too crevassed to climb. Reaching it via Yalung Peak might offer a safer approach.
Meroi explained that they will decide on the traverse once they assess the conditions on the mountain. This flexibility is key in alpine-style climbing, where every move depends on real-time weather and terrain analysis.
Weather as the Biggest Challenge
One of the main obstacles on this expedition will be the weather. The Himalayas are unpredictable, and storms can roll in without warning. The team hopes for better conditions this year, but they are prepared for all possibilities. Their experience and adaptability will be crucial in making decisions on the mountain.
Unlike traditional expeditions that set up multiple camps and rely on pre-fixed routes, alpine-style climbing requires speed and efficiency. The team will carry only what they need, making them more exposed to the elements. This approach adds to the difficulty but also aligns with their climbing philosophy.
The Spirit of Alpine-Style Climbing
Meroi, Benet, and Hamor follow the purest form of mountaineering. They avoid artificial aids and climb using their skills, endurance, and knowledge of the mountains. This style demands strong physical fitness, mental toughness, and the ability to make quick decisions. Few climbers attempt high-altitude ascents in this way, making their expedition even more remarkable.
As the climbers prepare to leave for Nepal, the mountaineering community is watching closely. Their attempt on Yalung Peak is not just about reaching the summit but about pushing the limits of human endurance and skill. If they succeed, it will be another milestone in their illustrious careers.
Their journey is also a reminder of the unpredictable nature of high-altitude climbing. No matter how experienced a climber is, the mountains always have the final say. For now, all eyes are on Yalung Peak as these veterans make their return.
For more updates on their climb and other expeditions in Nepal, visit Nepal Monitor.
